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The Semana Santa (Holy Week), like any
other religious, cultural and sociological event, is in no
means an ephemeral occurrence. The background of street processions
resulted from the institutionalization of the Vía Crucis
(Way of the Cross), which was introduced in 1521 by the Marqués
de Tarifa (Marquis Don Fadrique Enríques de Ribera)
upon returning from the Holy Land. From that date onwards
it is tradition to celebrate annually this holy day; the different
stages are divided by using portable Crosses and Altars. Legislation
emanated from the Council of Trent along with the prohibition
of certain passional ceremonies, fostering the regulation
that suppressed the proliferation of acts and solemn gatherings
of that period.
In 1604 guidelines were set to secure greater vigilance,
something which obliged all processions to follow a determined
route: processions from Seville would pass by the Cathedral,
while those departing from the Triana neighborhood, through
Santana Plaza.
From the 17th C onwards the cofradías (Lay Brotherhoods)
began to resemble the present model, until then grouped
according to guilds, social class or racial minorities residing
in the city (Golden Age).
During the 18th C due to social conflicts, the cofradías
experienced minor declines of action, which was later resolved
by introducing new social elements such as the first groups
of lay brotherhood organizations in specific neighbourhoods.
In the 19th C and with the expressed interest of the Dukes
of Montpensier, the cofradías began to receive more
support. This created a domino effect as groups of bourgeois
and merchants began to get involved for the first time.
In the second half of the century the present model of Holy
Week was crystallized, offering a universally recognized
manifestation, a complex popular celebration which unites
devotion and an aesthetic outlook.
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Antifaz: (Masks, veils):
Pieces of cloth that cover the head and face of the Nazarene
penitents, opened with two slits at eye level. They preserve
the identity of the brothers.
Armao: Macarena’s brother dressed
up as a Roman legionary who strolls behind the Jesús
de la Sentencia float (the Christ figure pertaining to the
Macarena brotherhood).
Bulla: Huge crowds of people who congregate
alongside the religious floats and in specific areas following
the routes of the brotherhood groups.
Capataz: (Overseers): men who are situated
in front of the floats guiding the steps of the costaleros
(team who transport the huge floats on their shoulders);
overseeing the success of these monumental floats make way
through the winding streets of Seville.
Capirote: pieces of cardboard that Nazarenes
wear on head, under hooded robe. No nicknames such as capirucho
or cucurucho (conehead) are accepted.
Carrera oficial: (official route): only itinerary in which
all processions coincide: starting in the Plaza de la Campana,
passing by the City Hall and ending up at the Cathedral.
The only way to view the brotherhoods following this route
is by renting strategically placed chairs.
Centuria: (Centurion) armed soldiers, proud
protectors of the Macarena. Well worth observing them as
they parade by. It is no easy task belonging to this group
of guards.
Cirial: (Processional candles): tall candles
carried by altar boys who from a distant bring joy and relief
to crowds who’ve been waiting impatiently; announcers
of the final arrival of a float.
Costaleros: men who carry the religious
floats. In ancient times they were carried by dock-workers
or masons who were hired for this event. Nowadays most costaleros
are members of brotherhoods who even pay a quota to participate.
Cruz de guía: (Guiding cross) which
opens the procession flanked by two Nazarenes carrying lanterns.
Esparto: type of wide skirt made of esparto
grass worn often by Nazarenes on top of their robes.
Hermano mayor: (Head brother) in charge of brotherhood of
Nazarenes, chosen democratically. Often carries a golden
post during the procession.
Incensario: (Censer) ceremonial brass
container with top and chains, in which incense is burned.
Levantá: moment in which the capataz
rings a bell indicating the lifting of the floats. Depending
on the type/size of the float, this movement is made in
one gesture or slowly.
Llamador: metal bell, located on the front
of the float which the capataz rings with a small hammer,
indicating the lifting or putting down of the float. Some
are examples of extraordinary craftsmanship.
Madrugá: the night/dawn between
Holy Thursday and Good Friday during which time the Pasión
de Jesús (Christ’s Passion) occurs; the most
intense moment of the Holy Week.
Mantilla: (Lace mantilla) piece of embroidered
cloth used with a large ornate comb is traditionally used
my women of Seville the afternoon of Holy Thursday and to
a lesser extent on the morning of Good Friday; defining
the traditional female.
Marcha: (March) musical composition that
accompanies most of the routes of the floats, many of which
are of beautiful pieces and of enormous musical quality.
Examples include works such as: Amargura, Virgen del Valle
or Jesús de las Penas.
Mecer: (Swaying) peculiar movement made
by costaleros in rhythm to the music. Accompanied by others
who sway the lanterns, dressed in cloaks; all together provide
a splendorous spectacle.
Nazareno: (Nazarenes) brotherhood members
who make up the processional entourage and who carry candles
or insignias are dressed in tunics, capes and masked.
Palcos: (Stands) tiers set up in Plaza
de San Francisco, adjacent to the City Hall and considered
the most “noble” section of the Official Route
(Carrera Oficial). These terrace seats are not rented on
a daily fee and can take years to reserve.
Palio: cloth canopies that cover a framework of poles which
support the religious floats, acting as a roof protecting
the statue of the Virgin. Many are authentic works of art,
embroidery and craftsmanship.
Paso: (Religious Floats and Sculptures)
group of images and statues carried on these stages. They
can be scenes of Christ, Jesus, the Virgin Mary or a series
of sculptures representing a specific scene of the Passion,
know as misterio (mystery).
Penitente: (Penitent) brotherhood members
of the processional entourage who carry wooden crosses,
dressed in tunics and masked. Unlike the Nazarenes, they
do not wear a cape.
Recogida: (Retreating) path taken by cofradías
from the Cathedral back to their temples.
Saeta: (Flamenco style song) brief flamenco
ballad usually sung from a balcony. The lyrics are an emotional
praise to the respective effigies and statues.
Trabajadera: large wooden beams that the costaleros use
to carry the floats.
Varal: (Metal poles) twelve vertical poles
that support the canopies framework of the floats. These
beautifully decorated crafted pieces characteristically
represent the slight movement of the floats carried by the
costaleros
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As sited in the Holy Week vocabulary
list above, bulla refers to the agglomeration of people, who
in this case gather round the processions, or the surrounding
streets. The increase in crowds experienced during Holy Week
in Seville has made this an inseparable phenomenon in this
city. Locals and foreign visitors gather in closely knit masses
in and around almost all of the brotherhoods. Nonetheless,
la bulla reaches it highest levels of density in certain places.
They include those highlighted places of a procession, especially
during the departure and return of the floats. Also, in the
surroundings of the Official Route, the Plaza del Duque y
la Campana, or at the ending site, the Plaza de la Virgen
de los Reyes, at the edge of the Cathedral.
During a complete route, from the time in which they leave
until they return, the brotherhoods and their processions
that spark the most popular devotion are: la Macarena, el
Señor del Gran Poder and la Esperanza de Triana.
According to experts, la bulla differs from common crowds
in that during this phenomenon certain norms of behaviour
are maintained. Usually, during the crowds of Holy Week
people breathe a certain ambience of behaviour, understood
amongst all, while rejecting any abrupt or selfish attitudes.
Everyone in Seville complains about la bulla, but in the
end accept that this is precisely just part of the spectacle;
a sea of people where the processions appear to sail. Holy
Week nowadays would be incomprehensible without masses of
people who gather to stage this event.
However, fluid as it is, la bulla, can reach certain levels
of high density in which it is difficult to enjoy the event.
Thus it makes sense to attempt to avoid these obstructions.
Advise on how to navigate through la "bulla"
There is no danger being caught in such crowds. Some people
who aren’t familiar with this phenomenon may feel
overwhelmed or in danger when stuck in one of these agglomerations
and may get very nervous. Not to worry, as there is no recollection
of anything significant ever happening in a bulla during
Holy Week.
Refraining and good manners are an efficient safe-conduct
if one is caught in one of these jams. Also, people in Seville
during such a situation tend to be more tolerant with foreigners
than with their fellow countrymen (and women).
Just the same it is best to avoid going the opposite direction
and of course never cross through areas where there are
large crowds (especially when a procession approaches).
If ever found trapped in such a situation, most times its
best to just hold on and be patient and wait until the crowd
thins. If one wishes to catch a procession as it exits or
enters a church, or along a narrow street or small plaza
which is hard to access, try at least to get there with
enough time.
Of course, if you’re with children its best to watch
a cofradía in open spaces, places with less crowds,
allowing for the little ones to make the front row without
any danger (soon they’ll be imitating the local children
by chanting, “nazareno, dame un caramelo!” (Nazarene,
toss me a candy!).
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. Strolling through Seville |
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During Holy Week the whole concept of
time and space throughout the city are radically modified.
The urban geography of the old town is transformed; pedestrians
once again own the city. Up until the early dawn you’ll
find people in the street. Hundreds of thousands of people
wander mainly through the old quarters in search of one or
another procession. Thus, already many parts of the old town
are considered a labyrinth; now add the possibility of coming
across a brotherhood entourage which has just crossed our
path, or the fact that the Official Route has actually divided
most of the old city into two.
Finally, all of this comes down to strolling through parts
of Seville that one rarely visits, including the locals, thus
provoking many a “discovery”.
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. Advise on getting around Seville (on
foot) during Holy Week |
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During Holy Week, the shortest distance
between two points is almost never a straight line. If in
your path a procession crosses, in most cases you’re
better off going round it than trying to cross through it.
The Official Route divides the city into two parts, however
there are a few passages which are very well organized by
the Municipal Police, allowing one to move freely from one
side to the other.
Walking around in a group larger than six can be very uncomfortable,
among other reasons, because the risk of someone getting mislead
is high. Spending the afternoon looking for someone is not
the most enjoyable way to spend Holy Week.
Always ask people from Seville. Most will know how to advise
you with good judgement on where to go and how to get there.
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To witness a cofradía is relatively
easy: the processions are held throughout the city and along
any point of the marked route (except the Official Route)
one can approach a float to contemplate and enjoy the spectacle.
However, it is necessary to take into account a series of
principles. In the first place, many of the processions make
way through some very winding narrow streets within the old
town. Some of them purposely seek an itinerary through the
most bending and picturesque routes possible. The passage
through the marcos incomparables (incomparable frameworks)
is fundamental to the composition of the work of art in question.
The backdrop of the city marks the stage of the greatest moments
of the passion and death of Jesus Christ. Also, the candlelit
guided floats in a small Seville plaza, the spectacular work
of the team of costaleros who skilfully swerve with no problem
through narrow streets accompanied by the sound of the solemn
music are basic components of the best moments of the week.
In order to witness these points at a close range requires
a certain skill for people who are inexperienced. Losing
oneself in the labyrinth of streets in Seville’s old
town is not difficult, not even for the locals. On the other
hand, holding out by standing for the duration of a procession
is not always a good idea. Some processions can take up
to an hour and a half to pass through completely (from the
sign of the guiding cross until the band which accompanied
the float), sometimes even longer. An experience such as
this can leave one’s kidneys (and feet) numb for the
rest of the day. Of course one can always rent a chair along
some portion of the Official Route.
Before setting out for a day of observing processions, draw
up a basic map of what you’d like to see and where.
Use this guideline to later coordinate what you believe
is most convenient.
Don’t become obsessed with seeing everything. Accept
that this is impossible to begin with, not only with the
time permitted during the Holy Week, but considered throughout
the lifetime of dedicated local. A good motto to go by:
quality above quantity.
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Good Friday at dawn (popularly known
as la Madrugá) is considered the culminating moment
of the Holy Week. The Christian liturgy calls for the commemoration
of the tragic hours of the Passion of Jesus, which lasts from
the Last Supper (night of Holy Thursday) up until the Crucifixion
(around three pm on Good Friday).
Advise on catching la Madrugá
Wear comfortable clothing, especially shoes. Be prepared
to experience cold weather during the early hours of dawn.
Although it may appear strange, stopping to rest during
the break of dawn can have devastating effects; sleepiness
can take over. It’s best without doubt to have a coffee
in some bar (all bars are open that night) and continue
ahead as long as you can. At the end, a hot chocolate with
churros (fritters) before heading home isn’t a bad
idea at all.
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Palm Sunday:
La Borriquita. Parroquia del Salvador. Plaza del Salvador
s/n
Jesús Despojado. Capilla de Molviedro. Plaza del
Molviedro s/n
La Paz. Parroquia de San Sebastián. c/ San Salvador
s/n
La Cena. Iglesia de los Terceros. Plaza Ponce de León,
10
La Hiniesta. Parroquia de San Julián. c/ San Julián,
2
San Roque. Parroquia de San Roque. c/ Virgen de Gracia y
Esperanza s/n
La Estrella. Capilla de la Estrella. C/ San Jacinto, 41
La Amargura. Iglesia de San Juan de la Palma. c/ Feria,
2
El Amor. Parroquia del Salvador. Plaza del Salvador s/n
Lunes Santo (Holy Monday):
El Beso de Judas. Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol. Plaza
Jesús de la Redención s/n
Santa Genoveva. Parroquia de Santa Genoveva. Avda. de Los
Teatinos, 69
Santa Marta. Parroquia de San Andrés. Plaza de San
Andrés s/n
San Gonzalo. Parroquia de San Gonzalo. c/ Nuestra Señora
de la Salud s/n
Veracruz. Capilla del Dulce Nombre de Jesús. c/ Jesús
de la Veracruz s/n
Las Penas de San Vicente. Parroquia de San Vicente. c/ Miguel
Cid, 2
Las Aguas. Capilla del Dos de Mayo. Plaza del Dos de Mayo
s/n
El Museo. Capilla del Museo. Plaza del Museo, 9
Martes Santo (Holy Tuesday):
El Cerro. Parroquia de Ntra. Sra. de los Dolores. c/ Afán
de Ribera, 122
Los Javieres. Parroquia de Omnium Sanctorum. c/ Peris Mencheta,
24
San Esteban. Iglesia de San Esteban. c/ Cristo del Buen
Viaje, 10
Los Estudiantes. Capilla de la Universidad. c/ San Fernando
s/n
San Benito. Parroquia de San Benito. c/ San Benito, 4
La Candelaria. Parroquia de San Nicolás. c/ Muñoz
y Pabón, 21
Jesús ante Anás (La Bofetá). Parroquia
de San Lorenzo. Plaza de San Lorenzo, 13
Santa Cruz. Parroquia de Santa Cruz. c/ Mateos Gago s/n
Miércoles Santo (Holy Wednesday):
La Sed. Parroquia de la Concepción. c/ Cristo de
la Sed s/n
San Bernardo. Parroquia de San Bernardo. c/ Santo Rey, 13
El Buen Fin. Convento de San Antonio de Papua. c/ Cristo
del Buen Fín, 8
La Lanzada. Iglesia de San Martín. Plaza de San Martín
s/n
El Baratillo. Capilla del Baratillo. c/ Adriano, 13
Cristo de Burgos. Parroquia de San Pedro. c/ Doña
María Coronel, 1
Las Siete Palabras. Iglesia de la Misericordia. Plaza de
Zurbarán s/n
Los Panaderos. Capilla de San Andrés. c/ Orfila s/n
Jueves Santo (Holy Thursday):
Los Negritos. Capilla de los Ángeles. c/ Recaredo,
19
La Exaltación (Los Caballos). Iglesia de Santa Catalina.
c/ Alhóndiga, 6
Las Cigarreras. Capilla de la Fábrica de Tabacos.
c/ Juan Sebastián Elcano, 7
Montesión. Capilla de Montesino. c/ Feria, 29
Quinta Angustia. Parroquia de la Magdalena. c/ San Pablo,
1
El Valle. Iglesia de la Anunciación. c/ Laraña
s/n
Pasión. Iglesia del Salvador. Plaza del Salvador
s/n
Viernes Santo (Good Friday (Dawn)):
El Silencio. Iglesia de San Antonio Abad. c/ Alfonso XII,
3
Jesús del Gran Poder. Basílica del Gran Poder.
Plaza de San Lorenzo, 13
La Macarena. Basílica de la Macarena. c/ Bécquer,
1-3
El Calvario. Parroquia de la Magdalena. c/ San Pablo, 1
Esperanza de Triana. Capilla de los Marineros. c/ Pureza,
53
Los Gitanos. Iglesia del Valle. c/ Verónica s/n
Viernes Santo (Tarde):
La Carretería. Capilla de la Carretería.
c/ Varflora, 15
La Soledad. Convento de San Buenaventura. c/ Carlos Cañal,
15
El Cachorro. Capilla del Patrocinio. c/ Castilla, 162
La O. Parroquia de la O. c/ Castilla s/n
San Isidoro. Parroquia de San Isidoro. c/ Luchana s/n
Montserrat. Capilla de Montserrat. c/ Cristo del Calvario,
1
Sagrada Mortaja. Capilla del ex Convento de la Paz. c/ Bustos
Tavera, 13
Sábado Santo (Good Friday (Afternoon)):
Los Servitas. Capilla Ntra. Sra. de los Dolores. Plaza
de Santa Isabel, 1
La Trinidad. Iglesia de la Trinidad. c/ María Auxiliadora,
18
Santo Entierro. Convento de San Gregorio. c/ Alfonso XII,
14
Soledad de San Lorenzo. Parroquia de San Lorenzo. Plaza
de San
Domingo de Resurrección (Easter Sunday):
La Resurrección. Iglesia de Santa Marina. c/ San
Luis, 31
The program is always the same. All processions take place
every year on the same day. Each procession leaves it’s
church and follows an established route. However all of
them must pass by what the locals call, the official route
(Carrera Oficial), which starts in la Campana Plaza, and
ends with the departure of the procession which exits the
Cathedral through the Puerta de Palos door. Once this float
has left the Cathedral, each procession returns to its own
church along a different route than the one that they started
on. Along the “official route” there are chairs
and stages set up in order to see the processions. To acquire
a seat one must contact the Consejo Superior de Hermandades
y Cofradías (Procession Superior Council).
Superior Council of Hermandades and Cofradías (Lay
Brotherhoods - Processions)
c/ San Gregorio, 26
Tel: 954215927
www.hermandades-de-sevilla.org
Check website for prices of balconies and seats.
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