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It was originally a livestock Fair.
The traders set up canvas tents which served as shelter for
the businessman. Other small businesses, such as stalls that
served food, drink, sold trinkets and sweets, etc. soon sprung
up around these traders. Movement from buyers and sellers
also brought different forms of entertainment: travelling
theatre groups, fairground music, etc.
In view of such a festive display, the townspeople not interested
in trading would gather around the grounds and organize dancing
under the canopied stands. This led to the decorating of these
tents.
Feria began to take hold in 1846. After initial resistance
from Mayor Montelirio, the promoters, Ybarra and Bonaplata
obtained support from the Count. This lack of confidence at
first had to do with an existing local livestock fair (Mairena
del Alcor). This along with another important horse fair close
by (Feria del Caballo, in Jerez) led to doubts on the success
of a similar event. In April, 1847, the Feria was officially
established, lasting for a period of three days. Though it
was in 1865 when the Feria de Abril finally received it first
big launching. As soon as it was seen as viable, the City
Council tackled as series of structural reforms making this
a provincial, regional, national and international showcase
of the city. The city and its residents soon made this event
their own.
In 1899 the Royal Fair (Real de la Feria, name which the grounds
received thanks to support from Queen Isabel II, earlier on),
begins to acquire a style of the event similar to today’s,
once institutionalized and fully decorated.
The City Council (1910) publicized the Feria and its popular
attractions in brochures produced by their own office. This
brochure cited this irrefutable date demonstrating the influx
of foreign visitors. During this period the Feria was enriched
with lovely floral displays, sport events, horse races and
great festivities held in the Maestranza Bullring.
During the Exposition of 1929, the Feria’s fairgrounds
were moved to the south of the city (Prado of San Sebastián)
and remained so until 1972. The Feria had gained in the area
of enjoyment while losing in the commercial aspect. It had
becoming a stage for fun for the inhabitants of Seville and
its surroundings as well as for visitors. This, along with
the attendance of different personalities of the period, projected
the event at an international level.
After 125 years in the Prado de San Sebastián and having
grown extensively towards surrounding areas such as the Parque
de Maria Luisa, Huerta de la Salud, the Audiencia, etc., the
City Council decided to relocate the event to the present
site in the Barrio de los Remedios, thus ending a period from
1847 to 1972.
Twenty eight years later the present fairgrounds have consolidated,
streets carry the names of bullfighters and along with excellent
organization this is now considered the ideal spot.
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. Advise on how to arrive and leave
the Feria |
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By bus. This is without doubt the most
economical option and also most entertaining way to see the
set up of the fair before actually reaching it. A special
regular service runs from the Prado de San Sebastián,
with stops made at the entrance.
By Taxi. The most expensive option, thought also the most
comfortable, especially when its time to return home. The
struggle to get a taxi during the early morning hours seem
to be of something of the past; people now line up in organized
lines at the taxi stands.
By car. It is important to decide before heading out which
parking lot, and what roads and roundabouts will be used.
Having to get behind the wheel can and should determine the
number of sherry’s the driver will have.
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. Public Feria vs. Private Feria |
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The Feria de Abril has always suffered
being labelled as closed and exclusive. Under this perception
there has always been an error of approach: the casetas must
not be mistaken as bars and establishments, but understood
instead as a home that local families and firms set up during
the duration of the fair. And, normally no home is usually
ever open to the general public. Nonetheless, the chances
of spending a full day at the fair without being able to enter
any of the thousand plus striped colour canvas tents is next
to none. In the first place because there are at least 15
public casetas which are free to enter, including those set
up by local municipalities. Secondly, Sevillians don’t
only invite friends and acquaintances into their tents. It
could also be that because one is from abroad, one doesn’t
know anyone in Seville, or at least someone who has their
own caseta. Even so, a good number of foreigners out of the
blue find themselves being kindly invited to enter a caseta
in order to get to know the real atmosphere of the Feria.
In short, the Feria offers many different ways to enjoy oneself,
from the local fair-goer who for years has had his own caseta,
to the visitor who attends for the first time. Everyone is
guaranteed to have a good time
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Albero: (Pipe clay)
yellow earth from the quarries of Alcalá de Guadaira,
typical “rug” of the Feria grounds and the Maestranza
bullring. During a very dry Feria... also the rug of the visitor’s
throats.
Alumbrado: (fairground lights) generically the name of the
set of three hundred thousand light bulbs that light up the
main gate and streets of the Feria nightly. The “testing”
of the lights, Monday at 12pm, on opening night, marks the
official inauguration of the Feria. Calle el Infierno:
(Hell Street) rides areas adjacent to the Feria grounds.
Thousands of people enjoy these torturous, “infernal”
rides, making it one of the most popular and lively areas
of the Feria.
Mantón: (Shawl) large silk embroidered shawl women
of Seville enjoy wearing, covering their shoulders and whose
frayed edges have proven, yet no one knows exactly why,
to get tangled in the buttons of the suits worn by men,
even strangers...
Farolillo: green, white or read paper lanterns
that cover the light bulbs on the streets of the Feria.
If an April showers falls, this becomes the nightmare of
the Municipal workers in charge of replacing them.
Paseo de caballo: (Passage of horses) circuit amongst the
streets of the Feria in which expert riders move about.
The established schedule is from noon until 8pm. Peak hour
is around 5pm. The colourful attraction of the horses, riders
and carriages increases year after year.
Portada: (Fairground gate) huge structure representing one
of the city’s monuments. Entrance point into the fair.
Traditionally the meeting point for visitors. In the end
it becomes one of the most difficult places to meet anyone.
Real de la Feria: (official fairgrounds)
area occupied by blocks of tents, white washed sidewalks,
tiled pavement and the grand gate. Contemplating this scene
and these grandiose fairgrounds justifies paying a ticket
to ride the giant ferries wheel.
Tablao: (dancing venue) wooden floor located
in the centre of the tent, used to dance sevillanas (typical
Sevillian dance). This floor comes alive during the zapateado
(typical dance step) of the third sevillana.
Traje corto: traditional suit for men, used primarily by
expert horse riders, although also frequently associated
with stylish riding-habits.
Traje de flamenca o de gitana: traditional
(polka dot - colour) dress worn by Sevillian women, at any
age, and with a lot of style, when they attend the Feria.
Fino: (dry sherry) white wine from the Jerez region, served
chilled; one of the essential elements of the “mare
nostrum” on which the Feria sails.
Caseta: (striped colour tents) one of
the thousand plus tents built with tubes, canvas and wood
and where the Sevillians gather during the week long Feria.
These tents for many act as home, while one’s residence
is reduced to a dormitory.
Manzanilla: (sherry) white wine from Sanlúcar de
Barrameda (Cádiz province). Less dry than fino. Over
the past few years it’s appears to be winning over
the choice of the fair-goers.
Pañoleta: aside from being a district of the neighbouring
town of Camas, it is the name given to the triangle which
crowns the entrance of the “academy” known as
the caseta
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The daytime Feria and the Feria at night
traditionally represent two very different worlds. The Feria
during the day is families, children, having lunch; a much
more relaxed environment than at night. From 10 - 11pm onwards
the youth inundate the official fair grounds. It reaches its
climax at around 1 - 2am. Those who have to work the following
day (remember that from Tuesday till Friday people only work
half days) make quick stops at their home, while the rest
remain inside the casetas or swarm around the grounds until
dawn
However, Feria experts begin to observe signs of change regarding
this distribution of time. More people are choosing the daytime,
with the sunlight on the tents and whitewashed streets and
the traditional dress, the horses about, food served in the
casetas. They tend to last into the evening, as long as they
can. In the end it’s a question of tastes.
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. The Feria from Monday to Sunday. |
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The Feria’s character changes
throughout the week. Doesn’t feel the same during the
first part of the week (Monday night, Tuesday, Wednesday and
Thursday) as during the holiday (Friday, Saturday and Sunday,
around midnight). The difference is that towards the weekend
masses of outsiders arrive. It is during these days that the
Feria acquires a feeling of agglomeration and by Saturday
night it becomes very difficult moving about the official
fairgrounds. Nonetheless, the imaginative Sevillians paint
this “invasion” with exaggerated colours. With
this wave of outsiders a considerable stampede of locals head
to the beaches and countryside. In the end a paradox is drawn:
sometimes there are more people about the fairgrounds on Thursday
than on Saturday.
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Monday: Caseta members
meet up to inaugurate their tent with the traditional cena
del pescadito (meal consisting of variety of fried fish).
La prueba del alumbrado: Lighting of the main gate and fairground
lights. The City Council and the Municipal Band gather at
the entrance of the main gate of the fairgrounds to turn on
the gate lights and street lanterns for the first time. The
Feria has begun.
Tuesday: official receptions take place,
consisting of lunch with friends and work companions.
The ground’s lights stay lit until three in the morning.
Wednesday: the Feria makes headway towards
the most culminating moments. Today the lights stay on until
four am.
Thursday: marks the beginning of the “big
days”. The passage of the horses can attract up to 500
carriages and 3000 individual horses.
Friday: arrival of massive crowds, including
many famous personalities. Some 700 horse driven carriages
shall gather on the fairgrounds. Tonight the “mythical
number” of one million fair-goers is expected to be
reached.
Saturday: just like yesterday, we shall experience
the same crowds and splendour. Many casetas resemble the dressing
room of the Marx Brothers. Some of the local don’t make
it tonight, but the recalcitrant fair-goers take over in numbers.
The lighting stays up until 6am.
Sunday: farewell day. Miura bulls in the
Maestranza bullring. By midnight when the brilliant fireworks
are being set off, many of the casetas will have already closed.
The Real (official fairgrounds) is inundated with melancholy.
Sic transit gloriae mundi.
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. Inside the casetas (tenth-booths). |
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Life inside a caseta holds the essence
of the Feria. The casetas however are not all the same, in
structure or in liveliness. A large caseta belonging to an
association or club offers the advantage of space and live
music or shows. Nonetheless, many people prefer the charm
of a smaller, “familiar” caseta, tents that usually
belong to a group of ten or fifteen partners. The sevillana
music is usually piped in (canned) and often space is cramped,
yet most everyone knows each other. The chances of experiencing
the true meaning of “art” of the event are greater
in this setting. One is usually invited to a caseta by one
of its members. Normally, upon arrival a royal welcome with
the first convidá (wine toasting) is offered. From
that moment onwards, the caseta becomes a place for conversation,
friendship and sevillana dancing. Although this last topic
deserves its own chapter.
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Being inside a friend’s caseta
is unlike being in a bar with a friend. Instead it’s
more like being in the home of a friend. One must assume this
important premise in order to be clear on how one must behave
in a caseta.
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